Sumire

Tucked into a Nezu backstreet, the 8-seat counter izakaya Sumire offers an unexpected highlight: a distinctly spicy curry rice. Balancing the comfort of home cooking with genuine heat, it makes a satisfying closer after an evening of drinks.

Before moving on to curry, a variety of small dishes keeps the counter lively. Guests graze on everyday staples and daily features like chicken skin simmered in miso, grilled herring cured in rice malt and salt (sagohachi-zuke), or shishito peppers stir-fried with red cocktail wieners. Bottled and draught beer, Ozeki sake served warm or at room temperature, shochu, and whisky sodas allow for easy pairings tailored to the mood.

Operated single-handedly by the owner, the compact space carries a down-to-earth atmosphere where even first-time visitors can settle in comfortably. With very few seats, the counter can fill up early in the evening, but it remains a welcoming stop for anyone seeking unpretentious food and drinks in Nezu at night. Payment is cash only, so planning ahead is wise.